Welcome to the Fault Finding & Diagnostics guide. This reference helps isolate physical wiring faults, load instabilities, and Zigbee pairing or driver issues to get your setup running smoothly.
Start with mode and wiring: correct model, permanent live to L, switched live/load identified correctly, appropriate mode selected before pairing, compatible load or bypass, and correct platform drivers/quirks installed.
Check reversed live/load, failed or incomplete pairing, missing drivers/quirks, weak Zigbee signal, stale hub entry, or an insufficiently long final press in the pairing sequence. Remove the knob to see LED feedback.
Check the physical wiring connections, bulb compatibility, and the total load on the circuit. Ensure you are using the correct dimming mode and that your minimum or maximum brightness settings aren't set too restrictively. Finally, check if the device is currently running in a decoupled mode, where turning the knob stops controlling the local lights and only sends smart commands instead.
Confirm the bulbs are dimmable, total load is sufficient, trailing/leading edge has been tried appropriately, minimum brightness is raised, maximum brightness is limited if high-end flashing occurs, and an LED bypass is fitted if the circuit load is too low.
Confirm the RD1-Pro is definitely in REM mode, the smart bulbs are not being electrically dimmed, the circuit has enough off-state load, the bypass is fitted across L and N at the correct point if required, and the load wire/bypass wiring matches the official diagram.
If your C-RD1C companion dimmer locks up or stops responding when turned up to full scale, please try setting the maximum brightness limit of the master dimmer slightly lower (for example, to 95%). To adjust this, short press the knob 6 times followed by a long 7th press until the LED flashes green twice. Turn the rotary knob to 100%, lower it slightly to a stable maximum level, and save the setting by short pressing twice. The LED will stay solid green for 3 seconds to confirm.
Check that the hub is in permit-join mode, the correct pairing sequence is used, the final press is held long enough, factory reset was performed, the LED shows pairing feedback, the device is close enough to the Zigbee mesh, and no stale failed device remains in the hub.
The device may have been paired in a different mode or without the correct quirk/driver. Remove it, factory reset, select the intended mode, make sure quirks/drivers are installed, and re-pair. It would also be beneficial to power cycle your Home Assistant.
Confirm that the device is in REM or DPM, not DIM. Confirm the platform supports the event set, the right endpoint is used, and the correct driver/quirk was present before pairing.
Remove it from the hub, factory reset, select the correct mode, then pair again. If smart bulbs are on the circuit, avoid rotating/dimming them until Remote Mode is confirmed.
Please pull the knob off the spindle. The LEDs should be visible behind the knob area. You should not need to remove the faceplate for routine setup feedback.
To help us look into this quickly, please provide the following details where possible: the product model, your smart platform or hub, the mode you selected, and the current LED behaviour. It is also incredibly helpful to include the make, model, wattage, and quantity of your bulbs, any bypass details, firmware strings, and screenshots or videos of the issue. Finally, if it is safe to take one with the power completely isolated, a clear photo of the physical wiring behind the switch will help us rule out connection issues instantly.
Immediately if you cannot identify permanent live, switched live, or neutral with certainty; if wiring colours are ambiguous; if there is crackling, heat, damage, or repeated breaker trips; or if the official diagram does not match the installation.
Manual control works but Zigbee does not, reset/pairing LEDs are not as expected, the smart side never appears in the hub, the behaviour changes when live/load are verified, or the bypass has been connected to switched live instead of neutral.
Flicker at low brightness, flashing when off, high-end flashing, behaviour that changes with different bulbs, instability only with a very low load, non-dimmable lamps, or smart bulbs used without enough standby load or bypass.
Wrong model string, missing endpoints, absent button events, no energy sensors, ZHA blueprints not triggering, SmartThings/Hubitat not exposing full features, or a device paired before the correct Edge driver, Hubitat driver, or ZHA quirk was installed.